BELVEDERE, Upper Belvedere Introduction

The top part of the garden is dominated by the Upper Belvedere, the spectacular Baroque building built for receptions given by Prince Eugene of Savoy; upon his death, he bequeathed it to the Habsburgs, who used it as their official headquarters and museum. Over the years, several collections have come and gone here, including the imperial picture gallery and the collection of Egyptian antiquities, until the current selection, which celebrates Austrian art up to the early 20th century.

Built in 1721-22, the Upper Belvedere represents a profound turning point in 18th-century architecture. Definitively abandoning the classic Baroque model, Lukas von Hildebrandt organized a system of buildings of unpredictable shapes, almost a sequence of pavilions of different heights and depths, linked together. The patterning of the windows, the presence of the curved line in the gables and the little domes at the corners, the variety of the crownwork, and the touch of color provided by the green roofs covered with copper plates make this palace the finest example of Austrian Rococo.

If you have entered from the Lower Belvedere, go and admire the magnificence of the rear facade, originally used as the entrance to the palace. It looks onto a garden, and is reflected in the waters of a large basin fountain. Especially impressive are the magnificent sculptures of quivering horses that flank the entrance and accompany the visitor into the striking atrium.

Now press pause and go to the entrance of the museum.

On the ground floor are rooms with snowy-white stuccowork and joyful frescoes. Observe the ceiling, supported by the giant statues of four mythological Atlases.

A dramatic double-ramp staircase, lit by lampposts supported by groups of cherubs, leads to the main floor. In a commanding position, a marble hall occupies the central body of the building, looking down over the city. The ceiling was frescoed by Italian painter Carlo Innocenzo Carlone.

On the high altar of the chapel, located In a room at the far end of the building, is a large painting of the Resurrection by Francesco Solimena, the most important Neapolitan painter of the 18th century.

If you are an art enthusiast, you should request the audio guide at the start of your visit. There may be a charge for this.

An interesting fact: the Belvedere is home to a fascinating display of the works of Franz Xavier Messerchmidt, the most extravagant sculptor of 18th-century Europe, who portrayed himself several times in bronze and marble, with strange grimaces and unusual expressions.